A short trip by caïque to the north are the islands of Kyra Panagia and her isolated monastery, Gioura, and Piperi which form the Northern Sporades National Marine Park – this was founded in 1992 for the protection of the monk seal and several rare species of bird. The seas in the area are rich in marine life and if you are lucky, dolphins will accompany you on your trip. All the islands are uninhabited except for colonies of wild goats – Gioura possesses a spectacular cave which is believed to have been the home of the Cyclops.
Traditional professions and customs are evident; out of the island’s population of nearly 2000, 200 are fishermen. The fishing port of Patitiri is a colourful jostle of large and small caïques supplying the island and the mainland with a rich assortment of fish. Shaded by trees, the waterfront bars and tavernas of Patitiri provide an attractive setting for those who like to watch the complicated antics of yachtsmen negotiating mooring space with local fishing boats. Several supermarkets, two bakeries, four fruit shops and an innovative ‘croissanterie’ provide for all tastes.
Taking a private boat from Patitiri and travelling along the south-eastern coastline, one passes the small fishing village of Votsi; secluded coves backed by wooded hillsides; the sheltered harbour of Steni Vala with its sleepy, waterfront tavernas specialising in rich soups of scorpion fish and mullet; the neighbouring island of Peristera, carpeted with wild olive trees and indented by small bays; the seaside hamlet of Kalamakia, consisting of three family homes each with their own taverna above a jetty; a further stretch of secluded beaches culminating in a cluster of deep sea caves studded by stalactites.
Alonissos is an island of contrasts: a rich green interior of pine forest and olive grove, the varied shades of blue Aegean Sea; small, secluded beaches and deep sea-caves carved out of steep cliff faces; the port of Patitiri, busy with its fleet of fishing boats and visiting yachts, and the unhurried atmosphere of the old town.
Goat tracks through the forested interior of the island provide the means to explore the wild and uninhabited terrain – areas left to the olive and plum pickers and circling hawks and falcons.
